December 11-20

From Vero Beach it is two pretty full days to Lake Worth, our jumping-off spot for the Bahamas. The weather when we left was windy and squally, which means heavy rain showers with even gustier winds in the showers. We were feeling just a little adventurous for heading out in these conditions when we came across this sight. There were at least 50 Optis, a small dinghy designed specifically for youngsters, spread out over a one to two mile race course. The kids appeared to be having an absolute blast in the windy conditions.

Another two miles further along was another race event with more than 60 small boats, Lasers and 420s, screaming along. The young teens in these boats were very good sailors with more tricks up their sleeves than I will ever know.

Lake Worth has two large anchorages where boats congregate to wait for a ‘window’ to cross to the Bahamas. Waiting entails listening to the weather broadcast early each morning and then rehashing it all day long with other sailors. We passed on the first day of the window because it was still windy with larger seas. We passed on the second day as well, with 10 plus knot headwinds, because the third day (and likely final day for some time) was forecast to be the most benign day of all three.

Such shrewd planners we are! We woke up to pouring rain and fluky winds from the north. The very first admonition about crossing the Gulf Stream is ‘Never, ever, do this when the wind has a northerly component to it.'

After sitting in the cockpit all morning, feeling quite soggy, Corinne informed me that we would never get to the Bahamas before February, and another day in Lake Worth may just drive her crazy. Apparently someone was listening, because shortly after lunch there was a break in the clouds and the winds began to blow lightly from the east. Later in the afternoon, along with with another boat that we had been talking to over the radio, but not met otherwise, we poked our noses out into the ocean.

The seas were not overly lumpy and for the first couple of hours we had a lovely close-reached sail. Then the winds eased as they shifted to ahead of us and it was a fifteen hour motor-sail trip to Port Lucaya. It is just a little disconcerting as the sun sets and it becomes very dark, with only the stars and some cloud-to-cloud lightening in the distance shining through. This is a picture of navigation lights of Nimuë, our partner in crossing.

As we settled into our slip at Port Lucaya, with yellow quarantine flag flying in anticipation of a visit from the Customs and Immigration officials, we sat back to unwind and enjoy a wonderfully warm Bahamian morning. To make the picture perfect, we were being serenaded by that Carribbean classic from the town square – I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas.

When we walked into the office of the Immigration officer later in the morning, he stood up to shake our hands and in a hearty voice said, ’Welcome to the Bahamas. We were wondering when you would get here.’

After completing the arrival formalities we wandered through the market square and got directions to the beach. We also made one purchase. You are able to buy three Kaliks – a Bahamian beer – for five dollars. They will open them for you and give you a paper bag so that you can drink them as you are walking along. The beer was freezing cold and couldn’t have tasted better on an absolutely gorgeous beach.

The next morning we were up early to move over to Ocean Reef Yacht Club. We are snuggled into a very comfortable slip where we have weathered the first winter 'norther'. There is a very friendly cruising community here and the resort offers access to all the amenities. We have a feeling we may just like it here! Now we are going to have to find out about ‘ting-em’.